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It has come to my attention yesterday that there are some false pedigrees floating around with some of our old stock on it! The rabbit's with these pedigrees where sold off Craigslist from a girl only known as Jamie, using the prefix J's on the pedigree. She sold withing the state of Montana, in the Missoula & Deer Lodge surrounding areas. Please note that the Glacier Mini Lops prefix is GML and GML only! Not GM, GM's, GML's. Any variation other than GML should be a red flag! For Harlequins, the prefix is Glacier's, and no other variation other than that. If you have ANY rabbit on your pedigree with a variation of either that is NOT GML or Glacier's, feel free to inquire it's authenicy with me! (Especially if the animal was not purchased from me directly!) It is understandable that in some cases, a typo or error can be made with imputing pedigrees into a software prograrm or handwritting them. However, these particular pedigrees are so off, it is safe to assume that the pedigree as a whole is all false. These particular pedigress posted herein are infact false and information within has been verified false by several sources. This situation also should serve as a reminder to do your research before you buy. Had the buyer of these two rabbits know simple breed information such as weights and coloration varieties a careful glance of the pedigree would have set off red flags! I know in some cases, the seller does not have the pedigree ready at the time of sale and offers to send it in the mail. Other times, some breeders request a deposit or full payment before you receive your pedigree. This does have both its upsides and downsides. In most cases it is always best to purchase a rabbit after seeing it in person. Although if you are unable to do so....ask for references, seek out those who have purchased from the same breeder. Expect a receipt or signed agreement in some way that will clearly describe what you purchased, from who, when and dates to expect your pedigree by if not available immediately. You also may have noticed some changes to the website....after this sitautaion came to light, have removed the page in which you can quickly look up new registration and grand champion numbers to update your pedigrees. I have also gone through and edited/blacked out all ear numbers, registration numbers and grand champion numbers visible. I am not 100% positive where the information came from to create these two pedigrees, but I did not want to easily hand out more, free for them to use. If you would like updated information about a rabbit such as registration, grand championship number or to make sure your pedigree is accurate, you are more than welcome to email me to do so! If you by chance happen to have purchased a rabbit with these pedigrees or similiiar, please know they are false, and by continuing to use such pedigrees, you are just as liable as the person who created them to begin with.   Throughout my many years off and on of raising rabbits, I have heard that old wives tale over and over again. "Don't touch the babies, Mama will reject them." Many newcomers to the hobby, as well as a few seasoned breeders have asked me if this was true, and how I care for my newborn kits.
Well, it is just that, an old wives tale. Your mama does are not going to reject or refuse to care for their young because you touched them. From the very begining, sometimes as soon as they are cleaned off I pick up and inspect each baby. When looking through the nest for the first time I am looking for immediate culls. These would be babies that are malformed, runts, peanuts, or those that have been severely injured during birth. None of which is very common in Mini Lop litters, but I check none the less. I am also doing a complete head count of live births for my own personal record keeping. As well as number of brokens vs. solids. At this time I pull out any that are dead. From this point, I check my boxes twice a day, morning and night. I count each baby to ensure none fell out of the box, remove any that have perished, and most importantly to ensure that each is getting fed properly. As a rule, I generally breed all my does at the same time. This way I have foster moms available should I need any. The first 24 hours, your kits can go without nursing, but it is not reccomended. Kits should look plump around their abdomen, but not too plump. Kits should not look thin. If you are not sure if your kits have eaten, gently pull up the skin along their back. If the skin does not qucikly snap back to the body, then your kit could be dehydrated, and it would be best to look for a foster mom. Kits will begin to dehydrate after 48 hours of not nursing. Rabbits are prey animals, and as their instincts will show, they have been known to stomp and/or eat their entire litter if they feel threatened. With that said, this does not mean that you putting your hands in the nest box is going to be seen as a threat. However, inviting new people into your barn could be. As well as having any type of animal inside your barn, such as a dog, cat, or any other animal your rabbits are not used to, could be considered a threat. Loud noises that are not common, such as fireworks, could also be a threat. Also, leaving your nest box alone, and not removing any deceased kits, especially during the warmer months, could cause your does to "thump" the entire litter should the smell of death and decay become too strong for them. Remember, rabbits have a great sense of smell. You may not smell it, but they can. If you can smell it, they can smell it ten times stronger. To them, having one dead kit in the box decaying will attract a scavaging predator, and threaten her safety as well as the rest of the litter. I strongly support the choice for anyone to check their boxes, at least daily from the time of birth and on. You will have stronger and healthier litters! |
Helpful InfoHere you will find lots of informational articles on how to care for your rabbits, about showing, and just news about our rabbitry in general. Archives
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