It's been said that the Registration System denotes an animal of quality.  ARBA's process stands above the rest as each animal has to be inspected for quality, and only those that are quality are approved for registration.

Not really.

Now, before I get into anything else, I would have to say, that I do appreciate this method to a certain extent verses the AKC method.  However AKC does allow registration of animals that are only non showable due to color, and ARBA does not.

When you register your rabbit you bring the animal, a full 3 generation pedigree (all info must be filled out, including the weights of all animals), and your ARBA Membership card and present these to the Regsitrar.  First, the Registrar goes over the pedigree and ensures that all the information is included and points out any information that is missing.  Then, providing the pedigree is complete, the rabbit itself is inspected.  The rabbit must be within the required weight limit and must not bear any disqaulifications from show at the time of registration.

But, your pedigree is only as good as the peice of paper it is written on.  Do you know your breeder well? Do you trust them?  Anyone, ANYONE can fill out a 3 generation pedigree providing Names, Ear Numbers, Colors and weights for a rabbit to make it look valid.  Anyone.  Not to mention the fact that I know of MANY MANY of the top breeders in this hobby that DO NOT register any of their animals.  None.  I also know of many who do not even keep records, so when you ask for a pedigree...who knows what you are truely getting!  At least AKC does DNA testing for studs.  Can you imagine the rabbit world if we did that? 

So then why do I register?  Well because I am adding to the database.  Once you submit your registration application, that rabbit's pedigree cannot be changed or altered.  EVER.  (okay well you can change the owner info and I think you can have them update the weight....but that is ever changing and not worth updating once a month)  The more rabbits registered behind a rabbit I purchase, means I can trust that pedigree to be authentic and true more so than I can one that is not.  But even then, should a person want to they could create a pedigree from Bucky bred to Doelina and write a pedigrees for the litter that never happened.  At least with AKC the owner of the parents must sign the litter registration verifying the breeding did infact take place.

I also register my animals because I do take the time and funds to send in for their Grand Championship Certificate.  It is a shame that ARBA does not allow other step ups in the showing process after Grand Champion.  But it is what it is.  The certificate goes in the rabbits file.  The more filled out my pedigrees are, the better I can show my animals are of QUALITY.

 However, in my opnion, quality is better determined by a judge not a registrar.  Sure your rabbit might be registered.  But does it win.  Does it have legs?  Can it be a grand champion?  If your rabbit is constantly loosing, chances are it is not a quality animal.  But that's okay.  Listen to the judges, find the one or two things that animal is lacking and breed up! 

I do feel that the registration process should include "sport" colors that are required to produce showable colors, such as Tri and Blue Eyed Whites.  Breeds like Rhinelanders and Spots, Checkered, Hotot and Papion all use the Sport or Solid to make the showable, desired color and markings.  The only reason the sport is not showable is due to color, and color alone.  All other aspects should fit the same standard.

Another reason to register, espeacially if you raise a breed that is listed on the Livestock Conservatory List, is because each rabbit registered is counted.  Those with low counts are considered endangered or threatened.  This is how the Livestock Conservatory receives this information.  Do not count on others to keep the counts up, you need to take part in this too.  And this is also another reason why the Sports should be allowed to be registered as a BROOD ONLY animal.

So register your stock.  Protect what you have worked for.  Ensure that future generations will have accurate information and that your breed numbers are properly being recorded.

Do you know how frustrating and heartbreaking it is to watch a young kid come to their first rabbit show, toting with them their most prized possession...the rabbit they bought from you.  The one you told them was show quality and would no doubt do well in the shows.  Only to watch that kid hold back the tears as their best buddy, beloved freind was disqualified off the show table, being told the rabbit they purchased from you was not a show quality animal, or it was not quality at all?

Sadly, this happens all too often.  It hurts.  It really does.

First lets clarify Show Quality.  When someone states that an animal is show quality, it simply means that at that time, the animals meets all the requirements for being able to be shown, and does not exhibit any disqalifications according to the Standard set forth for that breed.  Also, two rabbits bred together that ARE show quality will not always produce show quality offspring.  To know an animal is show quality, you have to be very familiar with the standard for that breed.  If you are not familiar, then you should at least have the standard so that while examining your litters you can compare them to the written standard.  

The standard was created to give breeders a blueprint to breed towards. Without it, you can end up with animals not able to perform the duties in which they were bred for.  Yes, even rabbits have a purpose.  When you start breeding subpar animals, you are destroying what generations of hard work has created.  You will end up with animals that are unhealthy, poor coloration, poor meat/flesh condition, Poor temperments,  Twisted spines, cronic illness, low immune systems, poor fur....the list goes on.

In addition to disqualifications, there are faults.  Now faults do not mean that an animal cannot be shown, but depending on the fault, it does mean it could be less likely to win.  Knowing what these faults are, are very important when it comes to breeding.  You do not want to breed two rabbits with pinched hindquarters together, because, well...what do you think they are going to produce?  That's right.  Pinched Hindquarters.  How well do you think a rabbit with pinched Hindquarters will place against one without?  Not very well.  

Now I know its not to hard to read a breed standard and figure out what the disqalifications are.  But, can you tell easily the difference between Long, Low or Narrow shoulders?  What does it mean when an animal is hollow in the loin?  Is the crown slipped?  How wide should the eye set be? Are the teeth budding?

If your not showing, you cant know all this.  This is not something you can learn from a book.  This is not something you learn from attending one show.  This is something you learn over years of showing and even years of breeding.  Dedicated breeders who show know to breed that narrow shouldered doe to a wide shouldered buck.  Good breeders know how to breed for improvements, evaluate, cull and breed again.

And again, breeding to a standard is not just for creating a show animal.  It is to create an animal that is correct in movement, sound in temperment and in good health!

If you are looking to purchase a rabbit that you would like to show at any time in the furture, ask your breeder:

Are you an ARBA Member?
Are you a member of the National Breed Club?
Are you a member of any local Clubs?
Do you have registered stock?
Do you actively show?

Ask your breeder to show you POSED photos of the animals for purchase.  Or, if you are face to face, ask the breeder to pose the animal for you.  Ask the breeder to highlight the animals good points and bad points,

But if you are serious about wanting a show rabbit...then go to a show.  Meet the breeders, look at the breeds.  Learn, watch and buy.  Do not be fooled by these so called breeders who are only breeding for money.  Chances are, you will find a better bred animal....for cheaper, from a breeder who breeds for a purpose, other than money.

English Lop 1, Me 0. The past 6 months has been chaos while waiting to close on our new home, I haven't had the time to work with this herd. Lesson learned.....MAKE THE DAMN TIME! ​

​If a rabbit does not wish to be held and cuddled it will fight, no matter how often it is held, picked up and handled. These scratches are from a 4 month old Mini Lop who is super sweet and is always at the cage wanting treats and pets. And yes, he has been handled daily as all juniors are since birth. He just was not feeling it today. This is one example as to why rabbits, no matter how docile, or small rabbits are NOT recommended as pets for small children!

​The best time to start conditioning your rabbits for a show would be months before that show begins. Here are some tips on how to get your buns in excellent show condition!


1.) Weight. First and foremost know your standard weight requirements!!! Throughout the year be sure to regulate your rabbits food intake to insure that he/she maintains a healthy weight for his/her breed standard. Weigh your rabbit often to keep track of the weights and adjust feed intake as needed. And most importantly, water water water!!! I cannot stress this enough! If your rabbit does not have an ample supply of fresh water, your rabbit will not eat. Your rabbit, when not eating does not maintain a proper weight and can be subjected to a lower immune system.


For overweight rabbits I personally have always found it best, and easiest to adjust their weight by simply removing pellets for 24-48 hours. No they are not fasting. In return I provide them with all they can eat fresh green alfalfa/grass mix hay, and of course water. Then I reduce the amount of pellets provided in their daily rations. Check their weight a week later. Has it dropped enough? If so, check the over all body condition.


You should NEVER feel a rabbit's vertebrae (backbone) and the hip pins should NEVER be visible or promidantly felt. If you feel this after an attempt to help your rabbit reduce weight to be within weight requirements for a show, then I am sorry, you have a large boned animal and it would be best to increase the food to bring your animal back to a healthy weight and retire it's show career to simply being a brood animal. (Breed down to a smaller boned animal either right at or slightly below required weight)


For underweight animals, slightly increase their food rations. Also I would worm. Take a fecal sample to your local vet and ask them to check for worms. Do not just blindly worm your rabbits without knowing exactly what type of worms your rabbit potentially has. You do not want to de worm for pin worms and give your rabbit this medication when in fact your rabbits have tapeworms. This is not going to help your rabbit rid itself of its worm infestation, and it could eventually help your rabbit build up an immunity to the de worming medication for the other type of worm, therefore making it useless if ever in the event you need to rid your rabbit of that particular type of worms.


2.) Grooming. Here in Montana show season starts in March. Of course that is also when the weather starts changing from cold to warmer temps. This also means that wonderful Molt. That rabbit you kept from last falls litters that you are so excited to show, is now molting. Hair is everywhere and it appears that your rabbit is trying to impersonate an angora! It never fails!


Regular brushing will help remove all this dead hair. Not only does this help the coat look nicer, but your rabbit is going to thank you for it in the long run! For the Mini Lops, and other regular furred rabbits we use a simple cat sized slicker brush. For those in horrible molt, we use a de-shedding tool. This is great, but do not use it for long legnths of time as you will cause an irritation on the skin. For the Mini Rex, my daughter uses a grooming stone and for removing dead hairs, duct tape or a lint roller.


Brush your rabbit a few minutes each day during the heavy molting times. Dont over do it. You dont want to break down the coat, cause skin irritations or bald spots.


For regular furred rabbits a spray bottle with witch hazel or even simple plain water will help break free those dead hairs and make grooming a bit easier. This also removes static from the fur. Use a misting setting, and only spray lightly. Dont soak the poor bunny! :) I even carry this bottle to the show for final touch ups before table time.


Do Not bathe your bunny! Shampoos and conditioners can leave a residue, leave the fur feeling unnatural and points can be deducted for this, or your rabbit can be disqualified. For buns with super dirty bum bums or feet I take a single hole carrier without the bottom pan and place it in the tub. I fill my tub up with enough water to rise slightly above the floor of the carrier. This will allow the bunny to sit and soak a few minutes, and not have to worry about him/her slipping and hurting him/herself in the tub. Most of mine simply relax in the carrier. I use either an oatmeal shampoo for those really hard to clean bums, or for white rabbits, a whitening shampoo. After freeing the dirt and poo clumps, I brush and even trim the longer hairs around the bum and gentials. Allow your bunny to dry. You can put the pan back on the carrier and let it sit in the house until dry. Unless its a nice warm day above 70 degrees, dont put your rabbit back outside, wet. Also, you are not going to want to do this the day before or day of the show. Your rabbits fur will need time to dry completely and naturally, so be sure to check your bums, and only bathe if neccessary at least a week prior to the show.


Nails. Ugh, the dreadful and most forgotten part about grooming! Oh how I hate going to shows and seeing people put rabbits up on the show table with 4 inch long needle point claws! Granted trimming nails can be an interesting event. Chances are you are going to come out of it with a battle scar or two. However, with regular trimming your rabbit will be used to it and after some time will not put up a fight. Nails if left untrimmed can be harmful to not only the rabbit but you! Rabbit nails are thin and very sharp. A rabbit's defense mechinism is to scratch. The back feet are especially strong.


Using cat nail clippers are the easist. Trim back to just infront of the quick. The quick is the pink soft center of the nail. Try to avoid this area. If you accidently cut it, your rabbit will bleed a bit, and it is slightly painful for him/her. Have some basic white flour, cornstarch, or even quikstop on hand just in case. If you nick the quick, you can dab the nail in the powder to stop the bleeding.


Regular trimming of the nails will in time shorten the quick and allow for shorter nails, which in the long run will prevent battle scars. :)


3.) Supplements. You can add supplements to your rabbits daily pellet rations. But be careful! If you over do it, your rabbit will become over weight! Supplements such as Show Bloom or Doc's Rabbit Enhancer require only an average of a teaspoon a day. Other supplements such as Black Oil Sunflower Seeds give an extra shine to the coat. Whole Rolled Oats help loosen dead hair. Regular oatmeal add an extra layer of fat/flesh for a beefier bunny. But again, dont over do it.


Over the past few years I have tried many supplements to give my buns that extra umph on the table. I have given this supplement mixed into their daily ration. But in turn this caused them to start scratching out feed and going in for the good stuff that they consider treats. Since I feed pellets in the morning, I give the supplement feed in the evening. I personaly do not use Doc's or Show bloom, but have my own special top secret mixture for my Mini Lops.


Another supplement you cannot go wrong with is hay. Fresh green hay. I found it best for my Mini Lops to use an alfalfa grass mix. I only provide small amounts at a time so none gets wasted. To keep the cage clean, and prevent the hay from being spread all over the cage floor, peed and pooped on, I use releasable zip ties. Take a handful of fresh hay and zip tie it to the corner of the cage.


4.) Practice Posing. There is nothing like a wild rabbit at a show. A rabbit that no matter what will not sit correctly and show itself off to the judge. Or a rabbit that absolutely refuses to sit still in a coop while awaiting its turn. I have seen many a rabbit fly out of the coop, or even out of the judges hands. At times I have even seen judges attempt over and over again to get a rabbit to sit up correctly to best evaluate it, but end up giving up on it and judging the only way it can, in a bad pose.


The more you work with your rabbit and practice the more its going to show off its good points. A rabbit that sits up properly and comfortably on its own pleases a judge more, and makes his/her job just that much easier.


Take 5 minutes a day, or even less and bring your rabbit out. Set him/her up into a good pose. Place the feet and head correctly. Dont force a pose. Dont hold the head down. You want a natural relaxed pose. If the rabbit wants to explore the area, allow him/her to do so for a short minute, then pose. Pose to the left and pose to the right.


While you have your rabbit out for practice this is a great time to go over it for disqualifications and grooming!


5.) Check for DQs. Go over your rabbit and check for basic disqualifications such as broken or missing toenails, mismatched toenails, broken tail, weight, broken, growing, or unaligned teeth. Unless you absolutely want a judges opinion on your rabbit with a DQ, or it's being used as a class filler. There is really no point in putting your rabbit through the stress of traveling and showing just to get Dq'd at the end. Read your breed standard and learn your breed specific disqualifications.


Double check the sex. If you accidently, and trust me this has happened to all of us, enter a buck in the doe class, and its caught, DQ'd, then that takes away from the availability of earning a leg in that class. Also, double check your animals genitals for red and inflamed vulva's, blisters or worts, split penis, etc.




No matter how much you groom, how often you practice, or how much supplements you give it all boils down to the quality of the animal itself. You cannot take a poorly breed rabbit, supplement, pose and groom it into championship. Know your standard and always set your goals high. Listen to the judges, take notes and improve!

Entering into the rabbit hobby is exciting, but can be overwhelming at times. Once you get the hang of it all, the rabbit hobby can be very rewarding!! As of late I have seen those who are fairly new to the industry ask all sorts of questions via social media. These are folks who obviously did not do their homework, and I have seen them ripped appart by more experienced breeders. This is sad. We are all supposed to help eachother. After all we are all breeding to better the breed right? With that said, I thought I would write a few tips of advice to these newcomers into the rabbit hobby, and perhaps maybe avoid some of these issues! :)


We all had to start somewhere right? For me, my grandfather bought me and my brother mixed breed pet bunnies for easter when I was 12. A year later, I had Mini Lops with pedigrees. I was in 4H. I was buying up rabbit books and wanting to join ARBA and start showing ARBA shows. My first Mini Lop was a birthday present from a school friend, and then it started from there! We all have came into this hobby in one form or another. How we managed to do so is not important. What is important is why we choose to stay!


One of the biggest things I cannot emphasis enough...RESEARCH! Before you buy your first rabbit, before you choose your first breed, research it! The American Rabbit Breeders Association has a great page of all recgonized breeds available for you to use! Check this page out, check out the links to the National breed clubs. Read about the breeds you are interested in! The next step would be to find a local breeder or two of these breeds in your area. Contact them and ask if they can take some time to visit with you about their breed, show you a few examples, and allow you to ask questions. Be sure to let them know that you are looking to get started, and are just researching breeds at this time. A good breeder, with a true passion for their breed & hobby will make the time to do this. And no matter how cute these darling bunnies are that you are shown, now is not the time to buy! Do not make impluse purchases! It will get you know where other than frustrated!


Your next step after talking with a few breeders, on your breed choices is to find a local show to attend. When you go to this show remember: DO NOT go behind the judges table, DO NOT interupt the judging, DO NOT stand in front of exhibitors watching the judging, DO NOT ask exhibitors to point out their animals. But DO watch how the judging works, DO listen to the judge place and comment on the animals (especailly the breed(s) you are considering getting into) When Judging is over, you may then talk to other breeders/exhibitors about their breed. Again this is not a time to buy, you are still researching!


In the meantime, between meeting breeders & attending shows, collect a few books on rabbit raising, Join ARBA, purcahse the current Standard of Perfection, and jion a few groups on Facebook dedicated to raising and show rabbits. These groups are excellent resources for newbies and a great place to meet more breeders, see more breeds, and ask questions!


When you feel like you have done enough research, and read all there is to know about rabbits. Now it's time to choose your breed. I highly suggest you start with one breed, and only one breed. A common mistake I see amoung newbies is getting so excited about all the varieties, pretty colors, body styles and just plain adorable rabbits! What ends up happening is that they cannot focus on all, they dont win at shows, improvements are being made when breeding, and in the long run they end up frustrated and give up!


Some of the biggest mistakes I see being made are newbies not doing their homework. Asking questions in groups in which, had you as a newbie done your research and learned about the basic principles of rabbit breeding and showing you would know these things. I understand that everyone was a newbie at somepoint, and everyone has to start somewhere. But, the point is do you really want to be that one person that posts a question in a group that says "I just bred my doe. When is she due?" Come on, if you did your research, you would know this! You are more than likely to get answers from several people. Several will be nice, most not so nice.


Showing and raising quality rabbits is not difficult and with today's world of technology all the information you need to know is right at your fingertips! So before you get started, do some research! Find the simple basics of breeding such as gestation, best age to breed (this varies from breed to breed and different breeders have different opinions) It's okay to ask questions to learn...but don't ask questions after the deed has been done. ​

Culling....to some like the ARA's this is cruel. When in essence culling isnt always terminal. To Cull is to remove. There are more than one way to remove a rabbit from your program. And it doesnt always mean to destroy it. Culling is essential to every serious rabbit breeder in hopes of building good quality stock.


Every breeder needs to have a plan in place to take care of the over-burden of young and older stock that is no longer useful for your programs. If you do not have a plan in place, then you will become overloaded and stressed out. It's always good to have more than one plan in place, a back up, because the first one may not always work.


Listed below are several different ways to Cull your herd:


1.) Sell: By selling your stock you are allowing another breeder/exhibitor to add to their lineage and improve qualities in their own herds. A person could want to purchase your stock for a variety of reasons. Such as to improve quality, color, or lineage. But be careful, your not going to want to sell a super crappy animal just because of color, especially if your name is on it, and you are wanting to build up a good reputation and lineage that people later down the road are going to want. Which brings us to pet sales. Your less than quality animals could possibly be sold as pets to pet owners for less, without papers. But is that a road you are going to want to go down? Sure that extra $10 pays for half a bag of feed. But take into thought what happens to the pet. Sure baby bunnies are cute and fuzzy, and they are easiest to sell the younger they are, because they are cuter than. But what is going to happen to this rabbit that a person paid $10 for when it gets older, when it no longer has that cute and fuzzy factor?


2.) Butchering/Terminal Culling = Death. So what do you do if that rabbit does not sell? Are you willing or able to hold on to it, allow it to take up space, stop breeding until you find it a home, and continue feeding it? If it's a stellar specimen, I would. If not, and that cute and fuzzy factor is no longer there, finding it a pet home is going to get harder and harder the older it gets. What about those rabbits that are just not good specimens of the breed? Are you willing to let them go out into the public? Potentially with your name on them? Even if you sell it for a pet, and a person asks where they got their pet from, your name is going out there, pedigree or no pedigree. There is not a home available for every single rabbit born, simple as that. I am a firm believer in terminal culling for many reasons. But I am also a firm believer that a life should not be wasted!


If you are wanting an additional meat source for your family, rabbit is an excellent source of low fat protein. You can use rabbit in any chicken dish and it is just as tasety. There are many safe and humane ways to put a rabbit down, and cleaning only takes a few minutes. Depending on how often you breed, you can have an endless supply of meat for your family.


If you do not think you can handle the whole aspect of home butchering and eating what you have raised, you can also check into other resources such as a zoo or raptor rescue. These places will take your healthy culls and feed them to other animals in need. Some may even give you a bit of money for your rabbit culls. Always check first to see what sizes, and if they will take them live or need them already down.


On occasion you can find a local cull buyer at local shows. These buyers usually have a price per pound. They purchase your culls and take them to their USDA processing plant to butcher, clean and dress for meat supply.


Other resources are those who own large snakes, or feed their dogs/cats a RAW diet.


3.) Retirement. Everyone has that lifer in their barn. Some have more than one lifer. That favorite doe or buck that you just cannot get rid of. Even if he/she is taking up cage space, no longer showing or part of your breeding program. I have seen where one breeder actually has a cute little outdoor community set up for her retired stock. They all live happily in a colony type setting that is fenced off with plenty of grass to graze and housing available.






Let's face it folks. Your not going to support your family on bunny sales, not each and every bunny is going to find that perfect forever home. Not each and every rabbit is going to be that show stopper that will eventuallty sell for 100s of dollars. You cannot continue to keep each and every retired rabbit....well you could, but is your barn big enough?


Before you breed, have a back up plan in place! ​

​Recently in a House Rabbit Society Facebook Group, I was accused of breeding my rabbits for the sake of making a profit. In an effort to come to the defense of each and every one of us seasoned breeders who breed to improve upon an individual breed standard for the sake of showing the animal at local or national ARBA shows, and to explain to those who are new coming into this hobby, I thought I would clarify the difference between a hobby and a business and what it will take to make a profit from raising rabbits.


Of course, just like in any animal hobby, there are "backyard breeders". These are people who do not take into account a standard of quality. These breeders do NOT know their breed standard, and if they do, they really dont care about it. Most BYB often do not show their animals, or count their fair wins as top quality. In the rabbit industry, the American Rabbit Breeders Association is the ONLY rabbit club in the US that recgonizes rabbit wins, championships, etc. A rabbit is not a true Champion unless awarded by ARBA.


I can only speak for myself, in regards to my own breeding and sales policies. This may be different for each rabbit breeder.


I breed my does once a year, usually between shows. Here in Montana we have a couple of months in which there are no shows, between June and September. There are occasions where I will have a couple does bred twice during this time. Usually to repeat a litter, or because I plan on moving that doe on, and want just one more kit from her. Also as a policy in my barn, when I breed, each litter has been planned out way before the breeding takes place. I compare judges comments, and each individual animal to be able to correct faults, and improve. Sometimes I will plan for months ahead before any breeding takes place. Additionally, each breeding is done with the soul intent of keeping at least one (sometimes two) from each litter. No breeding is done here without purpose.


To get into the nitty gritty of it all in regards to costs, expenses vs income....I feed my rabbits Purina Show Feed. Each bag costs me $22.99. Having a large barn, and many occupants, on average I go through two 50# bags of feed a week. This number increases during the summer months when we have litters. So in general my cost of feed is:


35 weeks of buying 2 bags of feed a week: Total Cost - $1069.30
17 weeks of buying 3 bags of feed a week: Total Cost - $1172.49


Now Purina offers, if you are a member, by saving the UPC Proof of Purchase points on each bag, you can send in for a coupon for one free bag after you earn 84 points. This can be done after purchasing twelve 50# bags.


An average number of bags I purchase each year : 121 bags of feed.
This would give me an average of 10 free bags of food a year.


So, with that said, my average feed bill per year is a whooping $2011.49!!! (This cost does not include the purchase of ingredients I get to create my own special blend of conditioning mix for the show year. If you wanted to be technical, you can add $80.00 to the above feed costs for the conditioning mix.)


In order for me to break even with feed costs, going on a recent tirade posted in the House Rabbit Society claiming that I am selling my rabbits for profit in regards to an ad I placed for a pet rabbit costing $15 each, I would have to sell 134 pet rabbits, just to make even on feed cost alone.


On average, year round I keep a total of 36 head. Currently 19 Mini Lops, 3 Harlequins, 5 Mini Rex and 9 Polish. Out of these 36 animals, 25 are does. For my does, if each doe, bred only once, produces an average litter of 6, I would have 150 kits to sell for pets at $15 each. That is only 16 over the number I would need to break even, and this is only breeding each doe once.


To be fair, since from each litter produced we keep one. So, that would bring it down to 125 potential kits for sale. And to further be fair, on occasion some kits are sold to other breeders with the kits pedigree papers on an average price of $75 per kit. So to give it a fair estimate, should I sell each kit prodcued, keeping one from each litter. I have come to the figure of, potentially $3,375.00 in sales should I sell 25 rabbits at $75 each to other breeders, keep 25 rabbits for myself, and sell 100 rabbits as pets. So that will give me a large profit margin should this actually occur. Finally, because I do keep one out of each litter (potentially), I do have to move on some seniors to make room. So let say I am to move on 25 seniors for an average cost of $50 each.


Bottom line: In the event I am able to sell 25 seniors at $50 to make room for upcoming juniors, 100 Juniors at pet price of $15, and 25 juniors with pedigree at show quality price of $75 each my total profit from the sales of rabbits would be: $4625.00!


Now we add in my show costs:


For most years we try to attend each show in our state, Montana. There are potentially 7-8 shows a year. Two of these shows, one in spring, and one in fall are close to home. The rest of the shows I have to drive an average of 200 miles one way to get there. So lets say I potentially attend 7 shows. My fuel costs to the two close to home shows would be about $50 collectively. The other five shows far from home would be about $100. Totalling, about $550 in fuel to attend shows.


Now my show entries for myself and my three girls usually run about $150 per show. Then additionally we need to include about $20 each child for raffle to support these clubs. So that is $60 spent. Now we need to look at food for ourselves. This usually includes two meals, sometimes three if we stay the night. So there goes another $75. For most shows I am lucky enough to have friends in the area so I dont have to worry about motel costs.


What is my total show expenses? Well one show is an average of $285. Now multiply that by 7 and we have $1995. Dont forget to add the fuel cost of $550....and now my total showing expenses for one year is: $2545


Oh, but dont think we are done with expenses! Feed and showing, those are the major ones. We gotta add in a bit for cage repairs, new equiptment (from Water Bottles, J clips, feeders, carriers, cages, etc) So lets just say I spend and average of $200 a year on repairs & replacements. And we cannot forget medications to have on hand so lets add another $75. Additionally, we like to keep a 100% registered herd. So we need to add the costs of registration for those 25 kits we kept, $150. What about new stock? This year I purchased a trio of Mini Lops from Wisconsin, total cost with Transport $515 (this does not include my costs of fuel to pick up the rabbits from the transporter. What about our club membership year dues? We are members of ARBA, MLRCA, AMLRC, NMRRC, AHRC, NPRC, WMRCF, & GFRB. These dues for all four of us usally run about $200 collectively for one year.


So lets look at the break down of expenses once again:


Feed: $2011.49 (W/O Show Conditioning Mix)
Shows: $2545.00
Repairs & Replacements: $200
Medications: $75
Registrations: $150
New Stock: $515
Club memberships: $200
Total Average Yearly Expenses: $5696.49!


Now in a perfect world, each and every bunny and older senior has been sold! That would give me the income, as stated above of: $4625.00


With these figures, my rabbit "business" isnt really a business. It is a hobby. A true business generates a profit. With the expenses described above, and 100% sales in every bunny made available will still put me $1071 in the HOLE. Each and every seasoned rabbit breeder can and will tell you there is NO PROFIT in raising rabbits, if you are doing them correctly. Of course, as I stated earlier, there are those BYB who will breed anything and they somehow manage to sell each and everyone of their offspring at a price equal to a good show quality animal. They dont show, and they dont have club memberships, or care about any upkeep. Their basic expenses is only feed. So they are able to make a profit. Therefore, they are a business.


I guess one way you can look at it....if you see a person at a show, and they are taking the time to get there, spending the money on entries....they are not a business, they are a hobbist. There is a big difference. So before looking at a breeder and running off at the mouth saying they are in it for the money....perhaps take into consideration what all they have put in, and what little money they can make back towards their investment, and their HOBBY!

​Normally, my policy is to NOT sell any pets or to the general public what-so-ever. However this breeding season I seemed to have been lucky with an over abundance of litters and offspring, so I thought what the heck I will give it a whirl. I had posted an ad on Facebook offering not only pets for $15 each (without papers) but also rabbits for the use of RAW feeding for pets and snake food at a per pound price.

​Additionally, there were other threats such as being shot, and feeding me to the Florida gators should I ever decide to visit the state. As well as an empty, pointless threat of "it's not the gators I would have to worry about."

​I was also accused of breeding my rabbits for the purpose of making a profit. As all true to heart rabbit breeders who breed for show quality standard rabbits know, there is no money making in this hobby. And that is what it is, a hobby. Not a business. (Please see my other blog post: Breeding Rabbits, the difference between a Hobby & a Business)


As a final attempt, I sent a message to one of the admins of this group explaining how this thread has gotten way out of control. This message has gone unanswered.


In closing I would like to offer a warning to all: Be careful of what you post online and who your friends are. Be extremely careful when it comes to groups such as the House Rabbit Society, PETA and the like. Know your state, city, county and Federal laws. Be careful of who you invite to your barn, and your home. Know that everything you say online and publicly throughout the internet can be held against you in a court of law should it ever go to that. You can also be held accountable to libel (written slander). Also, know your state laws for "cyber-bullying" of minors, should you ever come across such a situation. Protect yourself at all times.


The lesson I have learned by this mistake is, I will never offer up pets again to anyone. Never in any groups, or local adverts. Nor will I attempt to outsource and seek additional parties that I do not know for those interested in rabbits intended to feed another animal. All culls will be placed in our own freezer, or only out sourced to those we know on a personal level.

​Throughout my many years off and on of raising rabbits, I have heard that old wives tale over and over again. "Don't touch the babies, Mama will reject them." Many newcomers to the hobby, as well as a few seasoned breeders have asked me if this was true, and how I care for my newborn kits.


Well, it is just that, an old wives tale. Your mama does are not going to reject or refuse to care for their young because you touched them.


From the very begining, sometimes as soon as they are cleaned off I pick up and inspect each baby. When looking through the nest for the first time I am looking for immediate culls. These would be babies that are malformed, runts, peanuts, or those that have been severely injured during birth. None of which is very common in Mini Lop litters, but I check none the less. I am also doing a complete head count of live births for my own personal record keeping. As well as number of brokens vs. solids. At this time I pull out any that are dead.


From this point, I check my boxes twice a day, morning and night. I count each baby to ensure none fell out of the box, remove any that have perished, and most importantly to ensure that each is getting fed properly.


As a rule, I generally breed all my does at the same time. This way I have foster moms available should I need any. The first 24 hours, your kits can go without nursing, but it is not reccomended. Kits should look plump around their abdomen, but not too plump. Kits should not look thin. If you are not sure if your kits have eaten, gently pull up the skin along their back. If the skin does not qucikly snap back to the body, then your kit could be dehydrated, and it would be best to look for a foster mom. Kits will begin to dehydrate after 48 hours of not nursing.


Rabbits are prey animals, and as their instincts will show, they have been known to stomp and/or eat their entire litter if they feel threatened. With that said, this does not mean that you putting your hands in the nest box is going to be seen as a threat. However, inviting new people into your barn could be. As well as having any type of animal inside your barn, such as a dog, cat, or any other animal your rabbits are not used to, could be considered a threat. Loud noises that are not common, such as fireworks, could also be a threat.


Also, leaving your nest box alone, and not removing any deceased kits, especially during the warmer months, could cause your does to "thump" the entire litter should the smell of death and decay become too strong for them. Remember, rabbits have a great sense of smell. You may not smell it, but they can. If you can smell it, they can smell it ten times stronger. To them, having one dead kit in the box decaying will attract a scavaging predator, and threaten her safety as well as the rest of the litter.


I strongly support the choice for anyone to check their boxes, at least daily from the time of birth and on. You will have stronger and healthier litters!